Stenciling
Hand stenciled pattern over these antiqued red walls  enhance this decorative powder room.
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For use on walls, furniture, objects, and in fine arts paint techniques

The Decorative effect Stenciling, traces its roots as far back as Egyptian times, and has surged in popularity during various periods of history. Henry III used stenciled patterns, often with gold powders, in star shapes. William Morris and William Burges often used stencils in interior designs schemes. Folk art techniques, both on furniture and walls, have taken stenciling from a simple pattern repeat, to sophisticated and colorful design elements, rich with story lines and decorative symbolism.

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Sheets of clear acetate, and oiled stencil card are the most common materials used for cutting stencil patterns. Opaque oiled stencil card is easier to cut with a sharp craft knife than transparent acetate. Acetate is a bit more brittle and can split more easily than oiled stencil card. However, both materials work sufficiently, and transparent acetate is more readily available. 

For large areas it is recommended that you make duplicate stencil patterns, as they tend to wear and tear over modest usage.

Transparent acetate. Use a fine point Sharpie or rapidograph to transfer the image onto the acetate.

Oiled stencil paper. Use carbon paper and a sharp pencil to transfer your image onto the stencil paper.  

Cut the pattern out of your stencil material using a sharp craft knife, razor blade or scalpel. To insure clean cut lines it is important to keep the blade sharp, so change to new blades often. Use a professional cutting board, newspaper, or glass under your stencil when cutting out the pattern. A light craft knife of scalpel is easier to handle than a heavy duty craft or matt knife.

To can also use hole punches and scissors where necessary to make the appropriate pattern.

Acrylic Paints: Artist acrylic paints are ideal for stenciling. In the stenciling process paint is applied with a brush in an almost dry manner. Acrylic paints dry almost on impact and with the extensive range of colors, any combination can be achieved in a quick and efficient manner.

Artist oil paints: Oil paints are also used, though take longer to dry and require a bit more clean-up.

House hold latex paint: Regular house hold latex paint can also be used, though it tends to be too thick for delicate stencil projects. Any of these paints can be used on floors, as the floor gets it’s durability by final coats of protective varnish, not the actual paint used.

You may consider doing a test sample on a sheet of newspaper first to get a feel for the process, to see the manner in which the paint is applied and determine the actual color intensity of the paint application process.

Applying paint to the stencil	With a dry brush you can dab the paint onto the stencil.

You want to use dabs of color over your stencil. On a palette place the colors you intend to use. The golden rule of stenciling is to use an almost dry brush. Pick up a small amount of color on the tip of your brush. First ‘pounce’ or blot this loaded brush on newspaper to remove any excess moisture and paint, which will leave only a small film of paint available on your brush. You are now ready to start. Fix your stencil over the working area. You can do this by applying a thin coat of spray adhesive over the back of your stencil. Pieces of masking tape can also be an effective way to adhere your stencil pattern in place. Holding the stencil with one hand, begin to dab the surface with your loaded, dry brush. Use round scrubbing motions to apply the color. You can work from the center of the cut-out towards the edges to minimize paint build up (and potential leaking) around the corners and edges of the stencil pattern. You can also apply more than one color to the pattern. For example, if you are stenciling grapes, with green leaves, you can apply a blush of burgundy over the grapes, and add green onto the leaves. Often a bit of color that mixes from one ‘zone’ to another adds charm and character. You can determine if this is the look you are going for as you work through this process. 

On wall and furniture it may be necessary to apply a protective coat of clear sealer to insure that your stencil lasts for many years. For borders on walls, particularly ones that are near the ceiling, it may not be necessary to protect the pattern with varnish. For furniture and floors it is recommended to do so. For furniture and floors a clear Satin sheen varnish, like Benjamin Moore Stays Clear will work quite well.

Clean up with warm, soapy water.

Dispose of remaining glazes properly.

 

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